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Sorry about 1/2 a meter in diameter

You are saying you girdled (removed a circle of bark around the stem) this unnamed vine, and the vine can be 6-8 inches round? If it's that big, it may take some time for the girdling to be effective. You also have to be sure that you got all the phloem removed all the way around. I take it you don't want to use herbicides? An herbicide will kill the vine within a few weeks. However, girdling can work too.

To clarify, every vine coming down the tree, I cut through, full sever with a gap of at least an inch, not harming the tree underneaths bark. The one that is giving me trouble, a type of vine I didn't recognize, hasn't started to die yet. 3\4 of this big oak had vines on the worst one. I cut through each fully and either painted salt and vinegar or bagged a mixture on the stump of the vine. The English Ivy started dying fast. Seeing the difference daily whenever it wasn't raining. I am open to herbicide and have tried to carefully apply. I need to know how careful to be with the trees bark. Unfortunately the ivy that won't die starts to bush out at about 20 feet. The ivy I can spray easy. The bad stuff goes clear to the top and bushes pretty far the whole way. I'm amazed the tree still has life, a couple years and it won't. Wondering if I paint its stump ends where I cut it with herbicide if it will uptake. May as well try.

Yes, that should help. Try to keep the animals out of the area immediately after application.

Well said! Yes, and "dihydrogen monooxide" can be fatal if inhaled! Glyphosate will do a good job of killing most of the weeds including perennial weeds. As I suggest in this video, it's pretty safe. However, it won't persist in the soil. Imazapyr will persist for at least some number of months, so it will provide ongoing control. I think Ortho Ground Clear has both. Neither would be that risky for wildlife unless you applied when bees are foraging, for example. As you know, planting something desirable there would lessen weed pressure and reduce herbicide use.

Yes, definitely don't pull any more. You want the stems to be big enough to be injectable. Inject the large stems (above 1/2"). Then, apply herbicide to the small stems. Our small foam herbicide dispenser works well for this. Just apply to the stem about 5 inches above the ground and put two stripes of foam on opposite sides of the stem.

He used glyphosate, imazapyr, and triclopyr. Of these, triclopyr is the least effective.

I would definitely do it if the water to be used in the mix is hard. Otherwise, it is probably not necessary. For those who have hard water, they can also use distilled water instead of buying AMS adjuvants.

I advise against cutting. The plants seem to take up the herbicide better if they are not cut. We now offer a "conversion kit" for our Large Foam Dispenser that allows you to attach a streaming nozzle. This allows you to stream a liquid. This stream can be lofted high and the allowed to rain down on the knotweed. This is better than a spray of liquid or foam for the really tall plants. Professionals use a wand extension but this really isn't feasible for homeowners. Use a more precise method near your peach tree (such as a direct application to the stems). Create a buffer around the peach tree using the more precise method.

I look forward to it!

If you are replanting a slope, pretty much any native will work there - if there's sufficient sunlight and you can do the work on that slope. It is hard to maintain however. Maybe native shrubs? You can create little planting areas with small retaining walls.

Most welcome! For big plots with large knotweed stems coverage is a problem. Many professionals use multi-nozzle extensions for their sprayers to reach above the canopy. But these can expose you to lots of herbicide as you spray down. We are now offering this year for the first time a "conversion kit" for our Large Foam Dispenser that allows the user to spray a stream of liquid herbicide. You can loft the stream high - 12 feet or higher. You then use a sweeping motion to create drops that rain down onto the knotweed (but not on you). This method is fast and effective. It creates very little herbicide drift. If you go to our website, you can order it. Our Guide for a large stand of knotweed discusses this. It's available on our website at "resources" and "knotweed."

That's interesting! I haven't seen much evidence of any animals eating knotweed anywhere I have worked, but the deer have lots of other choices. If food options are more limited, knotweed may look good.

@@GreenShoots that is probably the difference. i live at the edge of town and the deer are city deer. they love to munch of knotweed as they pop out of the ground. i removed the fence and in 5yrs they eradicated it by continually eating them and not letting them grow up. slowly depleted the energy of the root system. i did have to wack it down the first season as they had already grown tall when i removed the fence.

@@AlsanPine Thanks for that bit of info!

One thing at the outset: this video is one of our older ones. We have new ones that I would recommend instead such as: Knotweed Control for Homeowners: 4 Tips for Success! ua-cam.com/video/LIpUXuCU6GE/v-deo.html. To your point: there is overwhelming evidence in the scientific literature that a good application of glyphosate herbicide is very effective on knotweed. Jones et al. 2018 is a prime example. Especially if knotweed is growing along waterways it will spread downstream if it is not controlled. I have seen miles and miles of prime trout habitat ruined by knotweed monocultures on both sides of the stream. We have right now an adequate (although not ideal) method of control of knotweed.

Congratulations! That's a big deal.

It doesn't help to treat with herbicide in the spring. You can dig or excavate. We have a video on doing that: Control Knotweed by Excavating or Digging Crowns ua-cam.com/video/k7WgGRiodIc/v-deo.htmlsi=4v5frUOC7vwj6qOY

Just making sure - the triclopyr you are using is an amine formulation and not ester? That should mix well with the blue foaming agent. You just need a bit more of it. The best time to treat black locust is probably going to be in late summer. For triclopyr i would use about 1.5% for foliar applications. I can send you the exact mixing instructions. Just send me an email: john@greenshootsonline.com

You are welcome! Thank you for the support! If I understand your situation correctly, here's what I would do: Plan to treat this fall. Use your brush cutter to cut access paths to the knotweed. Try to figure out which plants near the knotweed you would like to keep. Protect them. If there are other invasive plants mixed in with the knotweed, treat them together with a foliar application in the fall. I would do two applications. Then, the following year excavate the shoots per the video. Does that make sense?

@@GreenShoots yes sir! Thank you, I will do just that. 👍

Thank you! You clearly have one of those situations where outside constraints make it difficult to deal with the knotweed. It sounds like you are not treating with herbicides this spring, which is a good thing. Although in my experience (and that of many other applicators), autumn applications are the most effective, mid-summer ones may also work well too if they are combined with a a follow-up in the fall. That is what Jones etal 2018 found. I am advising customers now to consider a midsummer and fall treatment if that works better in their schedules.

@@GreenShoots Thanks for your reply. Unfortenately, we did treating with herb... (spraying last weekend), didn't want to say that right out (but guess it was too weak - now we can not buy Glyphospate anymore, but still in house stock :-). But now stopped since we found your great videos. Will to do the real work in this fall, leave it as good as we can, right now. But if it grow too high, we have to knock it down a bit for cars/ppl be able to see driving out. I hope, as it sees right now since last fall, we can live without that part.

Combining methods of treatment makes sense in so many situations. In some spots you want more accuracy. In other parts of a stand, you can use a faster method like foliar applications.

The new Roundup products do not contain glyphosate. Our company still sells products containing glyphosate. Here's a UA-cam video explaining why we prefer glyphosate to other products such as vinegar that are supposedly safer alternatives: ua-cam.com/video/ofGSp_CiWTk/v-deo.html

I am glad you caught this. If you do an injection in mid-summer, you should do another herbicide treatment in the fall. However, it's very likely the fall application will not be with injection. Most of the stems will probably not be sufficiently large (greater than 1/2 inch in diameter) to be injectable.

Thank you! However, I should point out that my company sells a stem injector. There are others on the market too. Just want to be upfront about that.

Cheers!

You're so welcome! Good luck dealing with your knotweed.

Yes, just use the aquatic version of glyphosate. Depending on where you live (which state) there may be restrictions on who can apply herbicides near or on water.

In the Spring I recommend digging out the knotweed crowns. View our video on this: Control Knotweed by Excavating or Digging Crowns ua-cam.com/video/k7WgGRiodIc/v-deo.htmlsi=4v5frUOC7vwj6qOY. Also, view our blog post which has the latest resources we offer on dealing with knotweed. greenshootsnews.blog/2024/04/25/invasive-knotweed-green-shoots-has-new-products-and-resources-for-dealing-with-it/

Thank you for responding!

@@ashleywnukowski1261 most welcome!

Timely question. I would not spray foam or spray drops onto knotweed with branches of desirable trees overhanging the patch (unless you have 10 ft clearance). Instead, I would do a direct application to the knotweed by wiping foam on stems and leaves or injecting. Check out this video too: Knotweed Control for Homeowners: 4 Tips for Success! ua-cam.com/video/LIpUXuCU6GE/v-deo.html Also, consider trimming the branch if that's an option. Make the trim at least a couple days before you spray if the tree is close. Also, spray away from the tree and definitely don't spray in high winds.

My recommended option in the spring is to dig out the knotweed. See Link below. I would not put a tarp on it. It seems that just causes the knotweed to go dormant. I also would not apply herbicide right now. The herbicide will not translocate to the underground rhizome. This video ("3 Simple Steps) is a bit out of date. Check out our newest one - also below. Good luck! Control Knotweed by Excavating or Digging Crowns ua-cam.com/video/k7WgGRiodIc/v-deo.htmlsi=4v5frUOC7vwj6qOY Knotweed Control for Homeowners: 4 Tips for Success! ua-cam.com/video/LIpUXuCU6GE/v-deo.html

You are most welcome!

If you can't use herbicides, I would definitely dig the ones you can dig. If a knotweed clump is too close to one of your forsythia to dig, repeated trim it back. Also, try to knock off the dormant buds.

Hello! Actually, with such a small infestation, you could probably dig it out. Here's our video on this. It gives guidance on when to dig and when to combine digging with herbicide treatments. The most critical thing is properly disposing of excavated knotweed crowns. Control Knotweed by Excavating or Digging Crowns ua-cam.com/video/k7WgGRiodIc/v-deo.htmlsi=4v5frUOC7vwj6qOY

You are joking . . . right?

@@GreenShoots yes LOL

@@johncasaleggio842 🙂 I see so many videos and suggestions about using Epsom salts, etc., to kill invasive plants. I am unduly wary!

I have not worked extensively on mugwort. However, foam herbicide might work well for foliar applications because it can more easily penetrate the hairy leaves.

Ah! You would need a big concrete pad. Knotweed does so well at escaping to the edges of covering.

@@GreenShoots what's your best tip to get rid of it fast

@@tasminwing8304 if you are located in the UK, I would say have it excavated by a licensed contractor. That's the fastest (but very expensive). If you live somewhere else, the U.S. for example, treatment with herbicide is quite fast. Check out this blog below where we describe all the different resources we have for dealing with knotweed. One of our new options is to treat in mid-summer and again in the fall. greenshootsnews.blog/2024/04/25/invasive-knotweed-green-shoots-has-new-products-and-resources-for-dealing-with-it/

The method described in this video would work on a walnut, but it would take probably a year for the walnut to die. And, remember, you would have a dead tree in your backyard. Moreover, walnuts as you know produce juglone, a substance that is toxic to many plants. Juglone is stored throughout the tree. It is probably best if you get as much of the tree removed from the location where you want to grow plants like tomatoes. Therefore, I would recommend having it cut down in the fall. If you grind out the stump, that's even better for ensuring the success of your tomatoes. Otherwise, just treat the stump as we suggest in our other videos such as this one: How to Do a Cut Stump Herbicide Treatment to Kill an Invasive Tree ua-cam.com/video/TEf1F9lVF7k/v-deo.html

Based on your description, I would not do a foliar spray of foam or liquid because the knotweed stems are so dispersed. Injections are very effective, but you should wait until autumn to do injections. (We will be offering an injection system soon on our website.) In addition, you need a method to treat the stems that can't be injected (under 1/2 inch). For those uninjectable stems, do a foam wipe of the stems and leaves. Alternatively, if you need/want to treat earlier than in the fall, you can do a stem/leaf wipe in mid summer and then again in the fall. For the knotweed in the middle of your lawn, yes, you can dig those out. See our video on digging knotweed: Control Knotweed by Excavating or Digging Crowns ua-cam.com/video/k7WgGRiodIc/v-deo.htmlsi=4v5frUOC7vwj6qOY

May is not a good time to treat - too early. Check out our newer videos such as: Knotweed Control for Homeowners: 4 Tips for Success! ua-cam.com/video/LIpUXuCU6GE/v-deo.html Also, if you want to do something early in the year look at: Control Knotweed by Excavating or Digging Crowns ua-cam.com/video/k7WgGRiodIc/v-deo.htmlsi=4v5frUOC7vwj6qOY

The best time to treat it would be in the fall or even winter with a cut stump treatment as described in this video. This method would be safe for your iris, too.

@@GreenShootswould round up 18% concentrate of glyphosate do fine? Should I mix with water or spray directly?

@@GreenShoots It's all kind of confusing - the data. I read 2% solution and the thinking you don't want to fry the leaves before the Glypho gets into the roots, etc. I have Goutweed/Bishop's weed I'm battling and kind find a tried/true protocol for that either. I see people struggling in FB groups/forums with people randomly trying various doses - many to no avail. Extensions etc. really need to get specific on instruct. EVERYwhere I go they say "Glyphosate" but never a %

I deleted my previous reply because I misread this question. If you are doing a foliar application with glyphosate, i.e., spraying foam or liquid onto the leaves and stems, you would use a solution with 2-3% active ingredient. If you are doing a direct application to the stems with our foam herbicide, for example, you should use a stronger formulation with 20% active ingredient.

@@karunald For most foliar applications, yes, a 2-3% active ingredient mix is right. For plants with tougher leaves and thicker cuticles you can go higher, but for plants like goutweed or knotweed with more delicate leaves, a lower amount of active is advisable.

@@GreenShoots Thank you. Been battling Goutweed for 20? years? Never once heard about Fall treatment. So far I'm still digging and being methodical/anal. Anything that comes up should just be a 'piece' - anything beyond that - Spraying. I just REALLY want that to work cuz It's failed me at 2% area doses. It's a rough one.

nice summary!

Yes, that is an option, especially for a small patch. I would recommend doing one year of herbicide treatments first for larger stands. It greatly reduces the amount of digging required. We cover this in another video: Control Knotweed by Excavating or Digging Crowns ua-cam.com/video/k7WgGRiodIc/v-deo.htmlsi=4v5frUOC7vwj6qOY

Why thank you! One other option if your treatments in the past have been successful is doing excavation of the straggler knotweed stems. We just posted a video on that ua-cam.com/video/k7WgGRiodIc/v-deo.htmlsi=3a4I8OjMRemfYc3O Good luck!

I hate watching mine grow to. It's hideous!

@@karmasong74 That's probably the biggest difficulty people have - waiting for the right time to treat the knotweed.

If you haven't done any kind of treatment, it is almost certain to come back. Knotweed is quite cold hardy.

@@GreenShoots ty for info🙂

@@AM-og6vo Welcome!

You are welcome! I would dig at least through the spring. Then, you can either let the knotweed recover enough so you can treat the foliage in the fall, or you could keep digging through the end of the year. Of these two options, if you can keep after it, I would lean toward digging.

I should have mentioned, check out our new UA-cam video on excavation: ua-cam.com/video/k7WgGRiodIc/v-deo.html

This is the key question. Unfortunately, there is very little research on the best methods of knotweed control after the first year of successful treatments. My working theory is this: After you have killed the bulk of the knotweed clone with herbicide treatments, the rhizome network consists of small diameter rhizomes that connect dispersed stems. Those stems are also less robust. I have found that if you just retreat only in the fall, you can kill that crown and a couple feet of rhizome around the crown, but another plant pops up the next year that's three feet away. It seems like you reach an equilibrium. As I see it, the one advantage of regular digging is that you can both deplete the stored carbohydrates and deprive the clone of new carbohydrates throughout the growing year. In any event, I don't see how digging (again only after a good treatment) could make matters worse - the rhizome can only have so much stored energy.

@@GreenShoots Sounds reasonable. I'll just keep digging then. Is your experience that by doing so you can get past the equilibrium described above? So is there a stage after a few years where you won't find any knotweed shoots in early summer? Or is identifying knotweed a skill you need to pass on to future generations if you had an infestation at some point?

@@SuperFeist I am past that equilibrium at some of the sites i work on, and I visit them at most 2-3 times a year to check. Totally eliminating knotweed it tough. The plant is so tenacious even when it is just barely hanging on. If you are dealing with a more residential site, it might be possible because you can spot the growth more easily.

When yanking individual stems I find interesting that some snap off at just under the surface, others come out with a 6" below ground stem attached, a nice white then pink piece and others come out with a foot long horizontal rooty (rhizome?) piece. A real lottery toss up. In the local stand I mess with I find that in the springtime at least it is not a monoculture. It shares the space with the early riser, garlic mustard. So when I take out the garlic, I opportunistically take out kw shoots or small crowns. Large crowns are abused by pushing the stems down flat.

@@williaml8474 I find that same inconsistency in how easily the crowns and rhizomes come up. In early spring they seem to come up easier. Maybe as the plant grows during the summer it creates more roots to brace the stems which are quite heavy by summer. Also, that's a good observation about springtime that I hadn't thought about - knotweed does seem to need time before it really starts growing. It makes sense that other plants take advantage of this opportunity.

A grapevine is certainly a woody plant and therefore what I say in this video would largely apply to grapevines.